Cooking at Meera's: Tom Yum Soup

I have a friend here in Ulm named Meera. She is from New Delhi and I met her in the Ladies' Room located in the Ulm University canteen. As you do. She was really friendly and back then I must have looked like a total freshie. It was my first month in Ulm, I was taking part in a German course at the university and feeling a little bit lost. Anyway, she was very friendly, asking me where I was from and what I was doing here. We exchanged numbers and have since become good friends. The other day, we met in the city and were confronting our usual dilemma of what to have for lunch. While Ulm is not short of cafes and restaurants, nothing we suggested to each other really sounded very appealing at all. There are times when you just feel like something you can't quite put your finger on and you know you probably will have to cook it yourself. That's when I remembered, that in my own kitchen, I have been quite obsessed with all things Asian. I have a Neil Perry cookbook, I've had it for ages without really looking at the recipes and now, all of a sudden, I have been using it on a daily basis. And that is what I found myself telling Meera. 'The other day I made a chilli paste,' I told her, 'and I used that chilli paste to make my own Tom Yum soup.' 'I'll never buy the instant paste again!' I found myself declaring. Before we knew it, we were both heading to her place with all the ingredients we would need for our lunch. What a joy it was to cook in Meera's kitchen. Hers is about 20 times as big as mine, with the luxury of bench space I have not known in years!
What follows are the recipes for the chilli paste and the Tom Yum soup. You need the chilli paste to make the soup. I have added some notes with modifications of mine. This makes quite a lot of chilli paste (about 3 cups), so you could reduce the quantity by half but I wouldn't recommend it as it keeps in the fridge and you can use it to add spice to just about any Asian inspired dish. All the ingredients are available in Ulm, I usually go to Asia Shop Nguyen, opposite Galleria Kaufhoff and on top of Metzgerei Bunk. They speak excellent English and if you can't find something on the shelf, just ask, it is usually hiding somewhere.

CHILLI PASTE (Simply Asian, Neil Perry)
2 cups peanut oil
1.5 cups diced red onion
1.25 cups sliced garlic (I only had enough garlic for about 1 cup and it still turned out OK)
6 tablespoons dried shrimp, pounded (if you don't have a mortar and pestle you could just whizz them in a blender for a few seconds)
1 cup palm sugar (I added about half a cup and that was enough sweetness for me, I recommend you add sugar to taste)

1 cup tamarind pulp, mixed with 1.5 cups hot water then pushed through a sieve (while I did add the tamarind when I made this at home, I totally forgot it at Meera's, we didn't really miss it though, but then we are Indian with guts of steel. The tamarind helps to tame the chilli so don't miss this step if you feel that is what you need)

3 tablespoons chilli powder
1/2 cup fish sauce

In a wok (or a deep fry pan), heat the peanut oil until just smoking. Add the onion and fry until very dark brown but not burnt.
Remove with a slotted spoon, drain and set aside. Add the garlich and fry until deep brown, then remove, drain and set aside.
Add the dried shrimp and fry until golden brown.
Return the onion and garlic and to the wok, then add the palm sugar and cook until dark brown and caramelised. Add the fish sauce, chilli powder and tamarind water, and boil for 30 seconds.


Pour the paste into a blender and process until smooth. Store in a screw-top jar in the refrigerator, where it will keep well for several weeks.

Use this paste to make the Tom Yum soup below. Please note that if you have an outdoor stove, it would be a great idea to use it, as the chilli paste does really have a strong smell that lingers. If not just open all your windows as wide as they can go.

SOUR AND SPICY PRAWN SOUP or THAI TOM YUM (Simply Asian, Neil Perry)
4 cups fresh chicken stock (I used a concentrate, still delicious)
1 stalk lemon grass, trimmed, cut into 2cm lengths and crushed (I used two)
5 slices galangal, crushed
2-3 kaffir lime leaves, crushed in your hand
2 tablespoons CHILLI PASTE (recipe above)
4 tablespoons lime juice
5 green bird's eye chillies, chopped
2 teaspoons palm sugar (I didn't add this as I found my CHILLI PASTE sweet enough)
4 tablespoons fish sauce
6 large cooked king prawns, shelled and deveined
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped coriander leaves
6 oyster mushrooms, sliced in half

Heat the stock in a pot until boiling. Add the lemon grass, galangal, lime leaves and chilli paste. Season to taste with lime juice, chillies, palm sugar and fish sauce - the soup should be sour but balanced, and fiery hot.
Add the prawns, coriander and mushrooms. Simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat. I chose to add about half a bunch of white, baby asparagus (these are in abundance here at the moment) and some pressed tofu.

Delicious!